Windy at the Top
I tackled Geumjeong mountain again, but this time with more success! I randomly got an invite from a new girl I had met the week before, and I took up her offer to meet her (Haley), her boyfriend (Matt), and two others at 10 am on a Saturday. Boy it was rough - I had a 45 minute subway ride to get there too! But I was so happy I went - it was incredible!
We took the cable car up, just like last time. But instead of only making it to the first fortress fate, we walked the entire ridgeline with dozens of Korean hikers. The older generations here (40s+) really take hiking seriously. They all had walking sticks and were decked out in the finest neon colored hiking gear. The ridge line walk wasn't very difficult - the path is pedestrian friendly, it has been done so many times. The scenery was beautiful - constant aerial shots of the city below, fall colors, and the winding fortress stone wall.
It suddenly got a lot colder at the top and I was not adequately prepared. I think I'm still in denial that cold weather should happen at the beach! I've been told I have to get out of my southern frame of mind. Perhaps. I was looking down, concentrating on the stone path, when I felt something on my face. My first thought was that a tree was losing its fall leaves, but lo and behold, it was snow flurries! I got about 15 on my tongue before they ended, so I'll count it as a success. It was funny to hear everyone go "OH! AH!" in Korean and English. I think they were surprised too.
We made to the top of the tallest mountain, and that really was a hike. I was huffing and puffing like a chain smoker- must get more exercise! The exertion was well worth it, for the feeling of triumph was fantastic. That, and for all the Koreans that patted me on the back. Haha. It was so windy at the top that I was seriously afraid I was going to blow off. Very precarious boulders and a very nervous Kathleen do not make a good mix. We took a picture at the large sign on top (I was clutching it very tightly!) and then made our way down the other side towards Beomeosa temple.
On the way down, we found another temple that no one was familiar with. It definitely wasn't Beomeosa, because we found that later. I looked in my tour book, but all it says is that "the hillside behind Beomeosa is dotted with hermitages and Buddhist dwellings." I, however, LOVED the temple. It was my favorite so far (yes, only out of 3, whatever). It was the first that I really experienced a feeling that I was in a holy place. It was just at sunset, and the place was largely deserted, except for 2 worshippers, who were continuously circling this large podium (about 50 feet by 3o feet) covered with statues of gods, goddesses, and protectors. They would pause in front of each large deity and bow before moving on.
Then, I passed a tiny enclosed pagoda, with room for just one or two people. I looked through the glass walls and saw a monk in a complete state of Zen. His eyes were closed, his head weaved, his arms rested on his crossed legs, and the "ooommm" sounded clearly outside to me. It was my first experience seeing such a devout Buddhist in action, and I felt very moved, and very much in Asia. Out of respect, I did not take his picture. (Give me some credit, please.) I then walked past a large worship hall, and there were 8 pairs of shoes outside (NEVER wear shoes in holy places!!) and the collective "Om" reverberated through the walls and echoed in the mountain air in a very mystical way. I was sad to leave, but I was so cold, I needed to move on.
Further down, we found Beomeosa Temple, which is one of the oldest temples in Korea. It was constructed in 678 during the reign of Silla king Munmu, by the monk Uisang. It was very large (way back in the day it held over 1000 monks!) and you could see the age in the fading paints and chipped wood. I'm not sure what they do for restoration here, or if they leave everything as it is for religious reasons. Something to wonder about, anyway. There were more people here, and after the last temple, I was not terribly excited. Odd, considering that temple is the one that everyone says you should go to! I think it's more for the history and the prestige than anything. I'm still glad I went though. I'll probably go another dozen times before leaving here. We made it down the rest of the way and found a place to have a victory beer and a plate full of chicken. Yum!
Pictures at http://picasaweb.google.com/k.a.sheridan01/BeomeosaAndMtGeumjeong#
We took the cable car up, just like last time. But instead of only making it to the first fortress fate, we walked the entire ridgeline with dozens of Korean hikers. The older generations here (40s+) really take hiking seriously. They all had walking sticks and were decked out in the finest neon colored hiking gear. The ridge line walk wasn't very difficult - the path is pedestrian friendly, it has been done so many times. The scenery was beautiful - constant aerial shots of the city below, fall colors, and the winding fortress stone wall.
It suddenly got a lot colder at the top and I was not adequately prepared. I think I'm still in denial that cold weather should happen at the beach! I've been told I have to get out of my southern frame of mind. Perhaps. I was looking down, concentrating on the stone path, when I felt something on my face. My first thought was that a tree was losing its fall leaves, but lo and behold, it was snow flurries! I got about 15 on my tongue before they ended, so I'll count it as a success. It was funny to hear everyone go "OH! AH!" in Korean and English. I think they were surprised too.We made to the top of the tallest mountain, and that really was a hike. I was huffing and puffing like a chain smoker- must get more exercise! The exertion was well worth it, for the feeling of triumph was fantastic. That, and for all the Koreans that patted me on the back. Haha. It was so windy at the top that I was seriously afraid I was going to blow off. Very precarious boulders and a very nervous Kathleen do not make a good mix. We took a picture at the large sign on top (I was clutching it very tightly!) and then made our way down the other side towards Beomeosa temple.
On the way down, we found another temple that no one was familiar with. It definitely wasn't Beomeosa, because we found that later. I looked in my tour book, but all it says is that "the hillside behind Beomeosa is dotted with hermitages and Buddhist dwellings." I, however, LOVED the temple. It was my favorite so far (yes, only out of 3, whatever). It was the first that I really experienced a feeling that I was in a holy place. It was just at sunset, and the place was largely deserted, except for 2 worshippers, who were continuously circling this large podium (about 50 feet by 3o feet) covered with statues of gods, goddesses, and protectors. They would pause in front of each large deity and bow before moving on.
Then, I passed a tiny enclosed pagoda, with room for just one or two people. I looked through the glass walls and saw a monk in a complete state of Zen. His eyes were closed, his head weaved, his arms rested on his crossed legs, and the "ooommm" sounded clearly outside to me. It was my first experience seeing such a devout Buddhist in action, and I felt very moved, and very much in Asia. Out of respect, I did not take his picture. (Give me some credit, please.) I then walked past a large worship hall, and there were 8 pairs of shoes outside (NEVER wear shoes in holy places!!) and the collective "Om" reverberated through the walls and echoed in the mountain air in a very mystical way. I was sad to leave, but I was so cold, I needed to move on.
Further down, we found Beomeosa Temple, which is one of the oldest temples in Korea. It was constructed in 678 during the reign of Silla king Munmu, by the monk Uisang. It was very large (way back in the day it held over 1000 monks!) and you could see the age in the fading paints and chipped wood. I'm not sure what they do for restoration here, or if they leave everything as it is for religious reasons. Something to wonder about, anyway. There were more people here, and after the last temple, I was not terribly excited. Odd, considering that temple is the one that everyone says you should go to! I think it's more for the history and the prestige than anything. I'm still glad I went though. I'll probably go another dozen times before leaving here. We made it down the rest of the way and found a place to have a victory beer and a plate full of chicken. Yum!Pictures at http://picasaweb.google.com/k.a.sheridan01/BeomeosaAndMtGeumjeong#
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