The Magestic Colca Canyon
La Cañon del Colca is located three hours outside Arequipa and is a major draw for travelers as it is the deepest canyon in the world! As soon as I recovered from my food poisoning (mostly!), I signed up for a 3 day trek into the canyon. There was also a 2 day option, but both treks actually covered the same distance. However, the 3-day moved at a slower pace and I heard the hikers could stop and learn more facts about the local flora and fauna and enjoy the scenery longer. Since I had plenty of time, the 3D/2N seemed best.
DAY 1
My hostel pick-up came at 3:45 in the morning. Ouch. We had to drive 3 hours to the town of Chivay, where we stopped for breakfast. Everyone was a walking zombie! Then we drove one more hour to a lookout point with the hopes of seeing one of the largest birds in the world: the condor. There were at least 150 people waiting along the ridge. It was one of the first times that I wasn't surrounded by mostly backpackers - there were families with children from many different countries as well. After ten minutes, the first condor arrived and the crowd took a collective gasp. Within 15 minutes, there were 8-10 condors soaring above us. (It was hard to count, not knowing if I was repeating a condor or not.) Some flew within 10 feet above us - I think they KNEW they had an audience and were enjoying it! Here's a video.
The birds really are incredible- their wings can span up to 15 feet. I learned a few more interesting facts too: they can live up to 90 years old, they are monogamous, and the male will commit suicide if the female dies! He will fly as high as he can, and then plummet down to the earth! The female? Oh, she finds another male. :D
We were rushed back to our van so that we could get to the trek's starting point in San Miguel Pampas. We were split into our respective groups (2D vs 3D groups, etc.). Our group consisted of 8 - 5 French, 1 Australian, and 1 French/German/American. Our guide, Nelson, was really good at getting everyone to introduce themselves. Everyone was so friendly that we instantly bonded and I had a really positive outlook for our trek! Here's a picture from the top, where we started our descent.
The first stage was a 3 hour hike down into the canyon towards the village of San Juan de Chucco. The views were stunning and we stopped a few times to take photos. While the hike down wasn't so physically demanding, it was a bit slippery because there were many tiny rocks. I had to go slowly, and my knees were shaking after 2 hours! Our slow pace made it easy to talk and get to know each other as well, which was nice. We arrived in the village around 1:30 and had a lunch of lomo saltado made with alpaca meat! It was tasty.
After lunch, any 2D trekkers had to continue onwards. We discovered then that there were only 2 groups of 3D trekkers, so we all sat around chatting and relaxing. We had heard that the weather would be really hot in the day...it was not. In fact, I was so cold! I bundled up as best I could and had some hot tea. As the afternoon went on, I became really close to Jessica and Kate and we talked and I even taught them a dice game.
Now, this is when things got kind of strange. When we arrived in town, some of the villagers were working on a water project and we could hear a small marching band playing songs to entertain them. Nelson informed us that it was Water's birthday (I don't really know...) and that the villagers would be celebrating. He had already told us that there were only about 30 people living in the village, and that only 2 of them were children. So imagine a village filled with mostly really old people dressed in traditional clothing wandering around. Now imagine a band playing the same song over and over while said elderly people start getting drunk on chicha, a local alcoholic beverage.
Our curiosity piqued, Kate, Jessica, and I wandered to the little soccer field where the music was coming from and stumbled upon the party. There were groups of people holding hands and dancing in a circle. As we watched, one man spotted us, came over, and held out his hand in a demanding way. The girls were reluctant at first, but I thought...screw it, why not? And once I said okay, the others did too! Soon we were also in the circle, dancing round and round. I looked for any discernible dance step...there was none. Just a lot of side stepping and stomping. The man who initiated us grabbed my hand and took me into the middle of the circle. I have to say, the whole thing was a bit eerie. The man in question had either recently fallen off a cliff or been in a fight, because his face was covered in small cuts and scabs. He also had a glassy look because he was so drunk and I seriously felt like I was in the middle of a horror film. It sounds terrible to say, but holy shiiit I was spooked!
After a few turns, we said thanks and left. An hour later, the rest of our group was like "did you know there's a party over there? Let's go!" And we said, "Oh...we know." But it was too late, we were corralled once again into the ring-around-the-rosie type dance. Now it was pitch black, and the music was on eternal repeat! Spookier and spookier! Some of the dancers had cornucopia-looking packages on their backs (held on by traditional capes) that were filled with flowers and bread, and at one point a woman ran around stealing all the bread! For dinner?! I finally said no to more dancing (if I can call it that) and went to sit down and watch. The elderly were so drunk that they started walking about 15 feet away from the dancers to pop a squat and pee! It was just so bizarre and I couldn't even take pictures! I really hope I have described the scene enough for you to imagine it!
The party continued, but the trekkers were done. We sat down to dinner and I was able to watch a bit of Peru's game in the Copa America on a tiny TV in the kitchen. They got 3rd place! Let's just say I was ready, if not thrilled, to go to sleep that night. And thank God for ear plugs!
DAY 2
We woke the next morning at 7:30 to have a pancake breakfast. No villagers were in sight..I imagine they were all recovering from their hangovers. Our agenda for the day was to leave at 9 and walk towards the next village, Sangalle, otherwise known as the oasis. Our pace was calm and Nelson stopped often to point out different trees an plants. We tried a few of the fruits and Nelson made us all put on "warrior paint," a red color that came from something (bug? plant?) stuck to a cactus that is used to dye clothing and make lipstick.
We arrived at the oasis around 1 or 2 and had lunch. Everyone was so excited to put on a bathing suit and get in the little pool, but it was chilly and I only lasted 5 minutes! Where was the sun everyone promised us?? And dang, I forgot my Teva sandals at the last village!! To compensate for my loss, I ended up chilling out in the grass and I shared a few beers with Kate and Nelson. It was fun to watch the 2D trekkers stumble in looking pretty tired! Then the little bar had the Copa America final on between Chile and Argentina so I got to watch Chile win! Yay! Dinner came early and then we went to bed. Here's a picture of the oasis hostel.
DAY 3
Day 3 was tough, really tough. Basically, we had to wake up at 430am so that we could be on the trail at 5am. We also didn't get a formal breakfast, so I had a little bit of trail mix and a cold coffee. The hike started in the dark and we were all following Nelson at a pace he set. I was puffing a bit, but overall okay. The worst was that it was so cold my nose starting running nonstop, making it harder to breathe! After the first hour, Nelson moved to the back of the line and told us to set our own pace. Since I had just recovered from being sick (and still had a bit of a cold), I had already told Nelson he should get used to having me at the back of the line, and that he might have to push me the last bit! My premonition was correct: it was HARD hiking up 1000m. My internal monologue was rife with colorful expletives. Okay okay...I also huffed out a few choice words in between gasps of breath :)
I felt dizzy a few times and had to rest. I wasn't sure if it was the altitude or hunger, so I would eat an apple or trail mix and then move on. At one point Nelson asked if he could carry my camera for me and I was like Yep! Definitely don't have energy to stop for any photos! My group quickly disappeared, and a few others passed me from behind, but I also passed a few people so I was feeling okay. I was walking alone for 20 minutes when all of a sudden, Nelson passed me on a mule! What the--?!? Cheater! He apparently got off a few minutes later to wait for me so that we could finish the last part together. I rounded a bend about 10 minutes from the top and I heard my name being cheered! My group really was the best-- they shouted encouraging things, including "DO IT FOR AMERICA" (they thought it was still the 4th of July. Bless their hearts, it was the 5th!) until I stumbled to the top and gave everyone high fives. Yes, I was the slowest in my group, but I still did the hike in under the suggested 3 hours! And I didn't have to ride a mule! I'm proud of me :) Here's a picture of Nelson and me celebrating after we finished.
After a piece of chocolate and a Powerade, I felt much better and the group headed to a real breakfast. We scarfed it down! Then we boarded a bus and started the journey back to Chivay. We stopped at a viewing points to see some beautiful terraces and llamas and alpacas. One guy on the bus decided he wanted to make a llama spit at him...and he succeeded. It was one of the grossest and funniest things I've seen. Did you know that llama spit is really vomit? Yuck.
Then we stopped in another small town where there were several people dressed in traditional clothing and an assortment of animals to take pictures with. You bet your butt I was quick to pay 1 sole to have a photo with a llama AND an eagle! Incredible!
After that we stopped at another tiny town that had hot springs. They weren't the hottest or the nicest, but it was still healing and wonderful. Sadly, I realized at that moment that I had once again forgotten something at the last stop. This time it was my bathing suit! What was wrong with me?! I blame the altitude. Luckily I had packed a black sports bra and underwear, so I rocked them just fine.
The last stop on the way home was very high up in the mountains and covered in snow. From the vantage point, you could look in several directions and see several different volcanoes. It was beautiful but so cold! We were quick to get back in the bus and then we napped all the way back to Arequipa. I hadn't showered in 5 days (I was a moron and didn't shower before the trip started), so I had a blissful steaming shower and then passed out for a good 10 hours!
Colca Canyon: wow.
DAY 1
My hostel pick-up came at 3:45 in the morning. Ouch. We had to drive 3 hours to the town of Chivay, where we stopped for breakfast. Everyone was a walking zombie! Then we drove one more hour to a lookout point with the hopes of seeing one of the largest birds in the world: the condor. There were at least 150 people waiting along the ridge. It was one of the first times that I wasn't surrounded by mostly backpackers - there were families with children from many different countries as well. After ten minutes, the first condor arrived and the crowd took a collective gasp. Within 15 minutes, there were 8-10 condors soaring above us. (It was hard to count, not knowing if I was repeating a condor or not.) Some flew within 10 feet above us - I think they KNEW they had an audience and were enjoying it! Here's a video.
The birds really are incredible- their wings can span up to 15 feet. I learned a few more interesting facts too: they can live up to 90 years old, they are monogamous, and the male will commit suicide if the female dies! He will fly as high as he can, and then plummet down to the earth! The female? Oh, she finds another male. :D
We were rushed back to our van so that we could get to the trek's starting point in San Miguel Pampas. We were split into our respective groups (2D vs 3D groups, etc.). Our group consisted of 8 - 5 French, 1 Australian, and 1 French/German/American. Our guide, Nelson, was really good at getting everyone to introduce themselves. Everyone was so friendly that we instantly bonded and I had a really positive outlook for our trek! Here's a picture from the top, where we started our descent.
The first stage was a 3 hour hike down into the canyon towards the village of San Juan de Chucco. The views were stunning and we stopped a few times to take photos. While the hike down wasn't so physically demanding, it was a bit slippery because there were many tiny rocks. I had to go slowly, and my knees were shaking after 2 hours! Our slow pace made it easy to talk and get to know each other as well, which was nice. We arrived in the village around 1:30 and had a lunch of lomo saltado made with alpaca meat! It was tasty.After lunch, any 2D trekkers had to continue onwards. We discovered then that there were only 2 groups of 3D trekkers, so we all sat around chatting and relaxing. We had heard that the weather would be really hot in the day...it was not. In fact, I was so cold! I bundled up as best I could and had some hot tea. As the afternoon went on, I became really close to Jessica and Kate and we talked and I even taught them a dice game.
Now, this is when things got kind of strange. When we arrived in town, some of the villagers were working on a water project and we could hear a small marching band playing songs to entertain them. Nelson informed us that it was Water's birthday (I don't really know...) and that the villagers would be celebrating. He had already told us that there were only about 30 people living in the village, and that only 2 of them were children. So imagine a village filled with mostly really old people dressed in traditional clothing wandering around. Now imagine a band playing the same song over and over while said elderly people start getting drunk on chicha, a local alcoholic beverage.
Our curiosity piqued, Kate, Jessica, and I wandered to the little soccer field where the music was coming from and stumbled upon the party. There were groups of people holding hands and dancing in a circle. As we watched, one man spotted us, came over, and held out his hand in a demanding way. The girls were reluctant at first, but I thought...screw it, why not? And once I said okay, the others did too! Soon we were also in the circle, dancing round and round. I looked for any discernible dance step...there was none. Just a lot of side stepping and stomping. The man who initiated us grabbed my hand and took me into the middle of the circle. I have to say, the whole thing was a bit eerie. The man in question had either recently fallen off a cliff or been in a fight, because his face was covered in small cuts and scabs. He also had a glassy look because he was so drunk and I seriously felt like I was in the middle of a horror film. It sounds terrible to say, but holy shiiit I was spooked!
After a few turns, we said thanks and left. An hour later, the rest of our group was like "did you know there's a party over there? Let's go!" And we said, "Oh...we know." But it was too late, we were corralled once again into the ring-around-the-rosie type dance. Now it was pitch black, and the music was on eternal repeat! Spookier and spookier! Some of the dancers had cornucopia-looking packages on their backs (held on by traditional capes) that were filled with flowers and bread, and at one point a woman ran around stealing all the bread! For dinner?! I finally said no to more dancing (if I can call it that) and went to sit down and watch. The elderly were so drunk that they started walking about 15 feet away from the dancers to pop a squat and pee! It was just so bizarre and I couldn't even take pictures! I really hope I have described the scene enough for you to imagine it!
The party continued, but the trekkers were done. We sat down to dinner and I was able to watch a bit of Peru's game in the Copa America on a tiny TV in the kitchen. They got 3rd place! Let's just say I was ready, if not thrilled, to go to sleep that night. And thank God for ear plugs!
DAY 2
We woke the next morning at 7:30 to have a pancake breakfast. No villagers were in sight..I imagine they were all recovering from their hangovers. Our agenda for the day was to leave at 9 and walk towards the next village, Sangalle, otherwise known as the oasis. Our pace was calm and Nelson stopped often to point out different trees an plants. We tried a few of the fruits and Nelson made us all put on "warrior paint," a red color that came from something (bug? plant?) stuck to a cactus that is used to dye clothing and make lipstick.
We arrived at the oasis around 1 or 2 and had lunch. Everyone was so excited to put on a bathing suit and get in the little pool, but it was chilly and I only lasted 5 minutes! Where was the sun everyone promised us?? And dang, I forgot my Teva sandals at the last village!! To compensate for my loss, I ended up chilling out in the grass and I shared a few beers with Kate and Nelson. It was fun to watch the 2D trekkers stumble in looking pretty tired! Then the little bar had the Copa America final on between Chile and Argentina so I got to watch Chile win! Yay! Dinner came early and then we went to bed. Here's a picture of the oasis hostel.
Day 3 was tough, really tough. Basically, we had to wake up at 430am so that we could be on the trail at 5am. We also didn't get a formal breakfast, so I had a little bit of trail mix and a cold coffee. The hike started in the dark and we were all following Nelson at a pace he set. I was puffing a bit, but overall okay. The worst was that it was so cold my nose starting running nonstop, making it harder to breathe! After the first hour, Nelson moved to the back of the line and told us to set our own pace. Since I had just recovered from being sick (and still had a bit of a cold), I had already told Nelson he should get used to having me at the back of the line, and that he might have to push me the last bit! My premonition was correct: it was HARD hiking up 1000m. My internal monologue was rife with colorful expletives. Okay okay...I also huffed out a few choice words in between gasps of breath :)
I felt dizzy a few times and had to rest. I wasn't sure if it was the altitude or hunger, so I would eat an apple or trail mix and then move on. At one point Nelson asked if he could carry my camera for me and I was like Yep! Definitely don't have energy to stop for any photos! My group quickly disappeared, and a few others passed me from behind, but I also passed a few people so I was feeling okay. I was walking alone for 20 minutes when all of a sudden, Nelson passed me on a mule! What the--?!? Cheater! He apparently got off a few minutes later to wait for me so that we could finish the last part together. I rounded a bend about 10 minutes from the top and I heard my name being cheered! My group really was the best-- they shouted encouraging things, including "DO IT FOR AMERICA" (they thought it was still the 4th of July. Bless their hearts, it was the 5th!) until I stumbled to the top and gave everyone high fives. Yes, I was the slowest in my group, but I still did the hike in under the suggested 3 hours! And I didn't have to ride a mule! I'm proud of me :) Here's a picture of Nelson and me celebrating after we finished.After a piece of chocolate and a Powerade, I felt much better and the group headed to a real breakfast. We scarfed it down! Then we boarded a bus and started the journey back to Chivay. We stopped at a viewing points to see some beautiful terraces and llamas and alpacas. One guy on the bus decided he wanted to make a llama spit at him...and he succeeded. It was one of the grossest and funniest things I've seen. Did you know that llama spit is really vomit? Yuck.
Then we stopped in another small town where there were several people dressed in traditional clothing and an assortment of animals to take pictures with. You bet your butt I was quick to pay 1 sole to have a photo with a llama AND an eagle! Incredible!
After that we stopped at another tiny town that had hot springs. They weren't the hottest or the nicest, but it was still healing and wonderful. Sadly, I realized at that moment that I had once again forgotten something at the last stop. This time it was my bathing suit! What was wrong with me?! I blame the altitude. Luckily I had packed a black sports bra and underwear, so I rocked them just fine.
The last stop on the way home was very high up in the mountains and covered in snow. From the vantage point, you could look in several directions and see several different volcanoes. It was beautiful but so cold! We were quick to get back in the bus and then we napped all the way back to Arequipa. I hadn't showered in 5 days (I was a moron and didn't shower before the trip started), so I had a blissful steaming shower and then passed out for a good 10 hours!
Colca Canyon: wow.
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