Discovering Usaquén

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Usaquén is a neighborhood in north Bogotá that, at one point in history, was just a small village until urban sprawl reached out with its needy arms and claimed it for the capital. Nowadays, it is known as an affluent area with many wonderful shops and restaurants, but it still retains some of its Spanish colonial architecture.

I was introduced to Usaquén by Matteo, a friend of a friend from Atlanta. He came down to Bogotá several month ago to help his Colombian friend open a new restaurant. Unfortunately, he only had plans to stay a few more weeks, so I made sure to take advantage of his knowledge and to have some good times! He introduced me to an incredible little restaurant called Abasto, which is reminiscent of a European market and makes a mean sandwich. Although it was pricier than local fare, it was still cheaper than it would have cost back home.

Matteo and I wandered the plaza and the surrounding streets and discovered a hidden cemetery. Call me crazy, but I have always been fascinated by cemeteries. I'm sure this is partly due to the fact that my mom's childhood home in West Virginia is across the street from the Catholic church and its cemetery and I spent many a summer going on walks and exploring the grounds. I also think the storyteller in me likes to wonder about the lives those people once led, and to imagine how the world changed for those who remained behind. Nonetheless, cemeteries have always been a creative space for me.

We wandered inside the gate and I was fascinated by the way the cemetery was laid out. It was a mixture of small mausoleums, fenced off graves in the walkways, and walls of evenly spaced markers that I assume contained ashes. There were flowers in abundance and beautiful stone carvings. Really, it was quite beautiful and peaceful.

The following Sunday, my roommate, Christina, and I went back to Usaquén to meet Matteo and to attend the Sunday fair. Every Sunday, the plaza and surrounds alleys fills with vendors selling all manner of handicrafts from around Colombia, and everything else from modern jewelry to coffee and pastries to Colombian futból jerseys. I sampled some oreo truffles and Argentinian empanadas and wished I had room for more! We had a grand time exploring the various stalls that wrapped up the mountainside until we reached a small monastery.We were lucky to have fantastic sunny weather and had great views of the surrounding area. On our way back through the plaza, we stopped to listen to few different street musicians, including a talented cellist and a great folk music band. Here's a short video of the folk music:





I definitely think Usaquén is one of those neighborhoods I will return to again and again. If anything, for those empanadas. Yuuum.

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