Mt. Ijen, a Sulfuric Volcano

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In the mood for more volcanoes, I next headed to Mt. Ijen, a 2368m volcano on the eastern side of Java. The group for Ijen was much smaller - only 10 of us in the van. The roads got worse and worse the closer we got to Ijen. A van should not traverse that road loaded with bags and people, only 4WDs should. Case in point - we got a flat tire! Luckily there was a spare and it was only a short delay. The set up was similar to Mt. Bromo's trip - the minivan dropped us at our hotel, where we were fed a gigantic meal, harassed by hungry cats, and then given a 4am wake up call.

We were driven to the park entry, and then we began the 3km hike up the mountain. Extreme mist created a very bizarre landscape with slivers of trees rising out of nowhere, and small bits of yellow sulphur glowing on the ground. Mt. Ijen is a sulphur (aka brimstone) mountain, and over 300 men work here daily to collect the sulfur from a mine inside the volcano. The men work early hours, collecting and carry 60-80 kilos of sulfur at a time up and down the mountain. We passed several of the men on the way up, and all were very nice and eager to have a picture taken for a small fee or even just a cigarette. For such back breaking work, their pay is very little. The sulfur is used to make cosmetics and medicine, and is added to pesticides and insecticides.

At the top of the volcano, the landscape started to change dramatically. Barren rock replaced the foliage, and it was much colder. I made it to the path leading down into the volcano crater, the mist began to clear, and I was floored by the incredible stark beauty before me. A turquoise sulfur lake sat just outside the mine which pumped a steady cloud of yellow smoke into the air. The yellow and the turquoise really stood out from the volcanic rock, and I had to break for several minutes just to take it all in.

More and more men began to pass us as we headed down into the crater, and most had nothing to protect their noses and mouths except cotton cloth. The smell of the sulfur got stronger and stronger as we got closer to the mine. I made it to the base and attempted to get closer to the lake. At that exact moment, the wind changed direction and I was blasted with sulfuric smoke. I could hardly breathe through the mere tissue I had against my face, and it was difficult not to cough or prevent tearing eyes. I decided I didn't need to be that close, and started back up the hill! I'm a smart girl, after all. Several other tourists wanted to get closer to the mine entrance to see the pump system, but the thick smoke deterred even the most determined. We couldn't believe men work here all the time, and reportedly with very few health problems! Staggering thought.

The way up was more precarious and I was impressed all over again by the men, who walked slowly, but steadily and with sure feet up the mountain, with twin baskets on their backs. I really wished that I'd known beforehand to bring treats for the men. I felt really bad that I didn't have anything to give, and a little upset the guide didn't tell us to do so!

The hike down was much easier - I almost ran down, and not only because I had to use the bathroom! We had some tea and cookies at the bottom, and then set off on a harrowing ride over horrible roads until we reached the pier that would take us to Bali.

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